Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone

Bjørnestad, M.; Buckley, M.; Kalisch, H.; Streßer, M.; Horstmann, J.; Frøysa, H.G.; Ige, O.E.; Cysewski, M.; Carrasco-Alvarez, R.

Journalpaper

Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone

Abstract

Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of orbital velocities in waves approaching a beach are analyzed with the goal of understanding the relative influence of wave-by-wave variations in mean-water level, wave height and incipient wave breaking on mass transport properties of waves in the surf zone. It is shown quantitatively that elevated local mean-water level correlates positively with increased Lagrangian mass transport at the free surface. Eulerian ADV measurements in the fluid column suggest that the depth-integrated wave-by-wave mass transport also correlates positively with the local mean-water level, and is only weakly linked to wave height and wave-breaking events.

DOI Link to Publication

URL: https://publications.hereon.de/id/50019/
Authors:Bjørnestad, M., Buckley, M., Kalisch, H., Streßer, M., Horstmann, J., Frøysa, H.G., Ige, O.E., Cysewski, M., Carrasco-Alvarez, R.
Year:2021
In: Geophysical Research Letters
Volume:48
Issue:21
Pages:e2021GL095722
Publisher:AGU, Washington, DC
Type:Journalpaper
ISSN: 0094-8276
Cite as: Bjørnestad, M.; Buckley, M.; Kalisch, H.; Streßer, M.; Horstmann, J.; Frøysa, H.G.; Ige, O.E.; Cysewski, M.; Carrasco-Alvarez, R.: Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone. In: Geophysical Research Letters. Vol. 48 (2021) 21, e2021GL095722. (DOI: /10.1029/2021GL095722)